Journey Back From (what seemed like) the Center of the Earth

Grand Canyon - That sliver of green is Indian Gardens, where I stood as this blog begins

After taking some pictures and savoring the view from inside the Canyon looking out, we regrouped to begin a climb the equivalent of climbing to the top of the Empire State Building. Twice. With another 15 stories thrown in for good measure. With Nurit taking the lead and setting a brisk pace, we started back up the trail at 10:38 am. "If you need to go on, don't slow down to wait on me" I told her as we walked. "I want to take my time and enjoy the view and I know you have to be back by 3:30." Amazingly, we were back at the 3-mile rest house by in only 32 minutes. "You are in VERY good shape" said Nurit, a very surprised look on her face.

I had unzipped my jacket on the way down. At the 3-mile rest house on the way back up I removed my jacket and strapped it to my backpack. No need to use the restroom. For each ounce of water I drank I sweated an equal amount thus remaining hydrated and eliminating time standing in line at the john. The time was 11:10 am.

As we left the 3 mile mark I took the lead, followed by Terry, Nurit and Joe, who was suffering from a bad cold. The steps were beginning to come harder but the adrenalin was still fueling my climb. I reached the 1 1/2 mile mark, 4.2 miles down and 3 miles back up, at noon. Terry arrived next, then Joe. Nurit was nowhere to be found. She still had 3+ hours to reach the top before her bus left without her. After waiting a few minutes, Terry, Joe and I began the last 1.5 miles without her. She and her Blackberry were on their own.

By the last leg of our hike the thrill was gone. Each step came harder, I leaned on my walking stick harder, and I paused beside the trail to rest more frequently. I was VERY glad I was wearing hiking shorts and not Levi’s. Soon a pattern developed. I would stop and rest, Terry would catch up and sit down with me, and then Joe would appear and take a picture. As we scanned the switchbacks below, Nurit was nowhere to be seen.

Drenched in sweat and exhausted, but elated, I reached the rim at 12:50. Terry arrived at 12:55 and Joe, camera in hand, arrived at 1 pm. But no Nurit. Since hiking back down to find her was not really an option and since she still had 2 1/2 hours to hike the last mile or so, we got in the car, went back to the Holiday Inn Express, and soothed our tired muscles in the hot tub.

Still wondering if she made out ok,  a few days later I sent Nurit an email apologizing for not waiting for her.   Here is Nurit‘s response:

Hi Doug,

I am SO happy to hear from you!

It is so kind of you to have thought about me but no apologies are necessary. You were on a roll and I did not expect you to wait for me and definitely not walk down for me.

I was exhausted and the long months of no activity finally became apparent on the way up. Knowing that I had time, I decided not to over stress myself and take my time. I walked at a slow pace, took breaks, and sung out loud when no one was around me - didn't you hear me? I reached the top at 1:30 pm. - very sore (for 3 days) yet very happy I made it all the way down and up!! It is thanks to you that I made this hike and I very much enjoyed your company. Not to mention the energy boost of your peanut bar! Thank you so much for making that hike a memorable day for me.

Best Regards,

Nurit

I didn’t hear Nurit singing, probably because I was talking to myself. Instead of singing, when faced with a large task, I always remind myself that the best way to eat an elephant is one bite at a time. So as Nurit was singing, I was plodding upward repeating “CHOMP - CHOMP - CHOMP”  as I walked. It helped focus my brain and other hikers seemed to give me extra room as we passed.

If you plan to hike the Grand Canyon, October is a great month to go. I can’t imagine trying it when the temperature is in the triple digit range. Take plenty of water and snacks. I recommend Payday candy bars. Take a walking stick (even if your fellow hikers compare you to Moses). Many experienced hikers had TWO walking sticks which they used like ski poles.

One final fashion tip: it doesn’t matter WHAT color socks you wear. By the time you get back, they will be reddish-brown, the same color as dust on the Bright Angel Trail.

                  

                      
                                                

Proudly wearing my new reddish-brown t-shirt